Abyssinia 6: Healthcare

Getting sick is not fun. It is even less so in a foreign country, but there are chances it could happen especially if you are planning a long stay.

I had a few problems myself so, with the help of our land lady, I found a clinic nearby. The receptionist was a bit slow in attending to me, but it seemed I was the next patient in to see the doctor. I am pleased to announce that at least the medical staff anywhere you go, whether to a pharmacy, clinic or hospital, can speak English so you don't have to start checking your dictionary when you are doubled over in pain.

Moreover, true to the culture of Ethiopia, the staff are friendly and supportive and I'm sure that if I was, in fact, doubled over with pain, I would have been tended to immediately. I haven't dealt with the insurance issue, but I guess that is a question for a big hospital and not a clinic. I wouldn't really know since my problem wasn't really that serious and in any case the attention I received at the clinic was enough.

I was surprised though that the only thing I had to pay for was the hospital card which cost me 15 Birr, and the medicine. I suppose there are some upsides to a communist society and I hope the receptionist understood me when I asked if there was anything else I needed to pay for, but that was a pretty amazing hospital experience.

I hope you don't actually get sick, but if you do, I think you'll be in pretty good hands.

Abyssinia 5: Local Hospitality

I have always known that Kenyans are some of the most friendly people you will ever meet. Although you will be suspected at all times (with good reason considering some experiences we've had) there will always be someone willing to help you around.

Ethiopia seems to have the same mentality only without the suspicion. Coming from a society like mine, it is I who is suspicious of everyone, but that is healthy too in a sense. Not everyone everywhere will want to rob you, but at the same time, you can't trust all good intentions because they might not be so good.

Still, I think unless you are completely unfriendly, you won't have a very hard time in Ethiopia. A few of the locals may be excited about seeing a foreigner and try to engage you in conversation. I won't lie, it can be borderline creepy (again depending on where you are, who you're talking to and what they're saying) but that may be my bias because of where I come from.

In the restaurants, the staff are friendly and engaging. Outside, a few people will try to get a conversation going. A few children might wave back when you smile and wave (although be careful of the kids that beg – you may end up losing something important from your purse/bag). The shopkeepers are kind enough to try and figure out what it is you are trying to ask for.

I particularly like this one guy at a shop right outside our house. There is constantly a goat standing outside that shop so I named it the goat shop. The man in that shop is always ready with a smile when I go to buy something and is always patient with me until the message passes across but he seems okay with playing charades each time until he gets it. You can only imagine the charades I had to play to describe cooking oil.

I will mention again the advantage of knowing some of the names of the things you will need in Amharic. I would suggest consulting Google for that. Alternatively, you can come and bungle through it until you find out a few of these words for yourself.

Either way, I hope you have as much fun with it as I have!

Abyssinia 4: Fine Dining

If you have been to an Ethiopian restaurant before, you have experienced something completely outside of your comfort zone.

My first time in an Ethiopian restaurant was pretty exciting. Then the food came and my family, that had been there before, encouraged me to try the food. I wasn't an immediate fan and wondered what on earth was so exciting about the sour pancake-like thing that we were being served.

My second and third visits were a lot better since, as my father had put it, the food was an acquired taste. Now I can't really seem to get enough and I order it whenever I can. It was actually one of the things, beside the project, that I was looking forward to.

It isn't very hard to find a restaurant in Addis Ababa. Just look for anywhere food is printed on the sign and there you go. I am particularly partial to the Injera and shiro. I should think I have eaten enough to give up now, but not so. While a few of my fellow EPs are still adjusting to Ethiopian cuisine, I can't seem to get enough. You can also have your choice of wot (curry, I think) or tibs (stew I presume). Depending on the restaurant, the taste will definitely vary. After a meal though, you are quite satisfied for a while. I think that is a pretty good bargain.

Besides that, however, those craving a bit of fast food can walk into a restaurant and order a burger that automatically constitutes fries. The burger being the main meal (and what amazing burgers they have here!) the fries on the side won't be a lot, but you will enjoy your meal for sure.

On the streets, you can get a small cone of thinly sliced fries for 1 or 2 Birr (depending on where you buy them of course.) There will be a select few Pizza places, depicting the Italian influence on Ethiopia. I think they could do with a little more cheese on the pizzas, and burgers too for that matter, but that's just my opinion.

For drinks, you can either have soft drinks or fresh fruit juice (and they are not kidding here.)

A couple of us went exploring and found a place that sells fruit juices. Those of you wise enough to order the strawberry juices will not believe the absolute heaven your taste buds will experience. We watched the lady working the blender pile it high with strawberries and then proceed to blend them to perfection. She added nothing else. I have never tasted something like it before. The pulp may be a problem for those who don't like it, but I think in this case, a “walk on the wild side” is perfectly in order.

The final item I will review is the bread. In the morning, you will probably be hungry and want breakfast. Coffee is available everywhere although it's probably the kind you need to brew which might take a while. You then have enough time to pop down to the nearest bread shop for a fresh bun or loaf of bread. I promise you won't be sorry for trying it!

There's plenty more I haven't talked about (the various stews, the pastas, the samosas, the salads etc.) but I dare you to come and give your taste buds an experience of their own.

PS: I was watching The Simpsons season 23 the other day, and I saw an episode where they went to an Ethiopian restaurant. All the signs were in Amharic, just like they are here. I think it really made an impact on me because I actually am in Ethiopia :)

Abyssinia 3: Project Work

Every EP has their own unique experiences. I can only speak for myself in this regard. The rest of the experiences will have to be from the EPs themselves.

The trip to La Scholina, the school we were supposed to teach at wasn't very amazing. There is a hill I found out I will have to climb every weekday morning to get to the road leading to the turn off leading to the other turn off leading to the school several metres from that.

I suppose this is sort of an exaggeration brought on by the fact that I haven't had very good experiences with hills before. That and the fact that I am usually out of breath by the time I get to the top of said hill. It's all worth it to get to the school though. Right from the gate and even before it, the kids are there to welcome you excitedly.

I cannot explain the absolute cuteness of twenty little voices saying your name for the very first time. The teachers, the principal and the secretary were all there to welcome us and give us a tour. After that, we were led into the kitchen and welcomed to participate in the Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony (a definite must for coffee lovers!) and fed.

Every day since then has been rewarding in its own way. Of course some of the kids are naughty, but which group of kids isn't really? It's the end of the classes that I look forward to the most though. After doing your best to get them to pronounce English words and teach them something new, to show their appreciation as they leave, the kids come to you one by one, take your hand and then reach up to kiss your cheek.

I later found out this was a common Ethiopian greeting, but it really is amazing to get so many kisses after a hard day's work. It really warms the heart.

I would like to take this moment now to thank all my teachers all the way through my first school years (especially then) to this very day for all their hard work.

There will be days when it's too cold to even want to drag yourself out of bed or when you feel too tired to go anywhere and wish honestly that you didn't have to go. I can honestly say though that the beaming smiles I get from the moment I step in through the gate and the little hands that take mine as they escort me to the classroom are a pretty good reason to wake up in the morning.

Abyssinia 2: On The Go!

The transport system in Ethiopia is much like the one in Kenya. To get around, you either get on the minivans (taxi here), the buses or the smaller hired taxis. I noticed a trend on the first trip, the smaller the vehicle, the higher the fare. A bus ride from Saris (where we live) to Bole (the airport) for example, should cost about 2 Birr, give or take some cents. That is a fixed price. On a bigger bus, you may pay 1 Birr, but there is no guarantee that it will be a comfortable ride (I suppose the expression here is the more the merrier). In a taxi, you may have to pay 25 Birr or more for that trip, true to taxi standards.

It isn't the worst way to travel. Like in all buses around the world, your neighbour may have forgotten to shower or put on deodorant, but if you're sitting next to a window (that opens) bonus points for you! You could of course consider the fact that you are packed in with a bunch of strangers like sardines, but at least you won't be cold on those chilly Ethiopian mornings.

As long as you know where you're headed though, I'm sure a friend;y Ethiopian local (who understands you) can direct you. It would be helpful though to learn the Amharic terms for a few things. While it is not necessarily the National language, it will certainly help you get around.

Happy travels!

Abyssinia 1: Touchdown and welcome!

Ethiopia is not exactly what you expect. I had no idea what I was going to meet when the plane touched down. In fact, the only thing I was certainly sure about was that the weather would be cold, as is typical of the June-July period.

I was glad that the locals were friendly and offered to give us their phones to call someone and let them know we were around. Apparently getting a SIM card in Ethiopia isn't as easy as we thought it would be.

The first week was a little hectic, deciding where to live and finding out where we were working, knowing who was in charge and so on. Eventually, we settled in a nice house in a place called Saris, about 5km from the airport.

One thing I wish could have been done was a sort of orientation into Ethiopian culture. So much is different. So much is exciting. Even more is confusing.

The exchange rate was the first bit of culture shock and a few of us (myself mostly) were worried that the money wouldn't be enough. It turns out that Ethiopia deals in cents though so you don't exactly have to spend all your money in one place.

The rates aren't so different from those in Nairobi if only a little higher (mostly for visitors). Being the typical tourist that I am, I spent a lot of money in my first week trying to adjust properly into the culture and convince myself that 100 Birr is NOT the same as 100 Kenyan Shillings. You would be surprised at the difference! (100Ksh = 20 Birr)

The landlady is nice. We had a little problem with her since evidently the landlord-tenant relationship in Ethiopia is different from the one we are used to. I think we've broken ground quite nicely since everyone seems to be on friendly terms now.

Saris is a nice place to live. Everything is a few steps from the house or a short walk otherwise. The more adventurous ones of our group have even discovered very convenient short cuts through the neighbourhood. Ethiopia is starting to feel a little bit like home at least.